13628 Gamma Road. (972) 805-0999; cattleackbbq.com.
This white-hot spot in a North Dallas industrial setting has been at the top of every important barbecue critics’ list in the past couple of years. That means lines are perpetually long, but patience is rewarded. Take a couple of longnecks (BYOB is fine) for company as you make your way to the order counter. Order the magnificent Akaushi (Texas-raised Japanese cattle known for its tender, heart-healthy qualities) beef rib. It’s about 2 pounds, so pace yourself. It pairs well with the baked beans loaded with brisket burnt ends; mac-and-cheese teased with Hatch chiles; and apple-broccoli seasonal salad. Into sandwiches? Don’t skip the Toddfather, a mountain of brisket, pulled pork, sausage, and slaw drizzled with barbecue sauce. If you arrive when the Que-T-Pie—house- made pastry dough filled with smoked brisket, cheese, onion, and sauce, and baked—is a special, it’s your lucky day.